One year later: Classically-trained Reilly Brown is refining Frenchie’s seasonal menu for all-day dining

As it approaches the one-year mark in the Plaza at Preston Center, Frenchie is earning its wink-and-a-nod name by lifting the pretense away from French cuisine. The newest restaurant in Dallas-based Travis Street Hospitality’s portfolio, which includes Le Bilboquet, Knox Bistro and Georgie, this friendly cafe departs slightly from the formula. Here, co-founders Stephan Courseau and Daniele Garcia, and Culinary Director Bruno Davaillon, have created a neighborhood spot for all-day dining – no matter where the day might take you.

“This is a restaurant that needs to stay approachable,” Courseau says. “It’s a playful menu.”

To lead this young kitchen, which is rooted in tradition with plenty of twists, Courseau tapped Reilly Brown. Michigan-born and classically trained, Brown brings skill, a sense of adventure, and plenty of curiosity to the role of executive chef. On a morning in March, with the stylish restaurant’s dining room open to the early spring breeze, we chatted with Courseau and Brown to learn more about Frenchie’s unique menu.

“I let the seasons dictate the flavors,” says Brown. “In Napa, that was a big driving force for developing my style of cooking. I like to highlight a central ingredient and build things around it to bring it up.”

After completing his degree at the Culinary Institute of America, Brown immersed himself in the food culture of the Napa Valley. Known as a cradle of the farm-to-table movement, the region is also home to many of our nation’s most prestigious restaurants. Notably, during his tenure as sous chef at PRESS in St. Helena, the restaurant earned a Michelin star.

At Frenchie, Brown applies this Napa-honed expertise with laid-back ease. “I’ve had the opportunity to cook more like I would cook at home and with family,” he says.

That translates to a menu filled with favorites executed from a fresh perspective. Eggs Benedict, for example, is served classic ($21), Norwegian ($25) or Florentine style ($21) in the morning; grilled salmon comes atop spiced lentils with fresh arugula pesto in the evening ($34). It pairs beautifully with a white or light-bodied red from Frenchie’s well-edited list of French and California wines. 

Courseau notes the burger au poivre ($24) is another “fun play on a French classic.” Rich with Gruyère cheese and black peppercorn aioli, it’s his go-to comfort food order. And, when you’re up for “a good surprise,” as he puts it, there’s an order for that, too.

Brown’s grilled octopus ($34) is one such dish. “It’s a vibrant, fresh preparation,” says Brown. “We braise the octopus for four hours, so it’s very tender, then finish on the grill and combine with chimichurri, charred shishito pepper, cilantro and lime.”

Yellowtail crudo ($28) is also handled with care and creativity. Starting with fresh, whole fish delivered daily, Brown first cures the crudo in salt, sugar and citrus zest, then finishes with fresh grapefruit and a Serrano-spiked sauce. It’s perfect with a cilantro-infused Back to Cabo cocktail.

In addition to highlighting “playful” flavors, Frenchie takes sourcing seriously. “We’ve been working with suppliers from around the area for years,” says Corseau. Though this door is relatively new, Le Bilboquet opened in 2013. The years add up to long-term relationships and time-tested ingredients for the Travis Street Hospitality team. Profound Foods, My Epicurean Farm and Chef’s Produce as well as Rosewood Beef and Valhalla Organic Salmon, are just a few local and artisanal purveyors on Frenchie’s list.

Brown, still new in town, also sources inspiration locally. “Honestly, the dining scene has been a big thing,” he says. “I love food. I love hospitality. So, in my time off, I frequent other restaurants to see what’s going on and to meet new people.”

Seeking out hidden Dallas gems serving everything from Tex-Mex to Detroit-style pizza to authentic Jordanian cuisine, Brown returns to Frenchie with fresh ideas daily – and the boss wouldn’t have it any other way. “We want to create connections with different communities,” says Corseau. “That’s what you do with food.”

Frenchie, 8420 Preston Center Plaza, 214.377.8652, frenchiedallas.com